Questions people ask before they're ready to apply.

No. A conversation about your goals and options is free and doesn't commit you to anything.

A pre-qualification is a quick estimate based on information you tell me — try the prequalification estimator for an instant version. A pre-approval goes further: your credit is pulled and your income and assets are reviewed, so it carries more weight with sellers when you make an offer. Neither one is a final loan approval.

Just talking doesn't touch your credit. A full pre-approval usually involves a credit check. Credit scoring models generally count multiple mortgage inquiries within a short shopping window as a single inquiry, so comparing lenders over a few weeks has a limited effect.

Typically: recent pay stubs, W-2s (and tax returns if you're self-employed or have other income), recent bank statements, a photo ID, and details on any debts. I'll send you a checklist specific to your situation so you're not guessing.

It depends on the program. FHA loans can allow scores as low as 580 with 3.5% down; conventional loans generally start around 620. Higher scores usually mean better pricing. If your score isn't where you want it yet, I can help you see what would move it.

Less than many people think. Some conventional programs allow as little as 3% down for qualifying buyers, FHA requires 3.5% with qualifying credit, and VA loans often require no down payment for eligible borrowers. You'll also want to plan for closing costs.

DTI compares your monthly debt payments (including the new housing payment) to your gross monthly income. Lenders use it to judge whether the payment is affordable. Limits vary by program, and I'll calculate yours up front so there are no surprises later.

If you put less than 20% down on a conventional loan, you'll usually pay private mortgage insurance (PMI), which protects the lender, not you. On conventional loans it can generally be removed once you build enough equity. FHA loans have their own mortgage insurance premium with different rules.

Often around 30 to 45 days from application, depending on the loan type, appraisal timing, and how quickly documents come in. HELOCs and refinances can move on a different timeline.

Fees for the lender, appraisal, title, escrow, and recording, plus prepaid items like taxes, insurance, and interest. They often land somewhere around 2–5% of the loan amount. You'll see an itemized Loan Estimate within three business days of applying, so you know the numbers before committing.

Your Loan Estimate shows your projected rate, payment, and costs early on. Before closing, you'll receive a Closing Disclosure at least three business days before you sign, so you have time to review it and ask questions.

Rates change daily and depend on your credit, loan amount, property, and down payment. A number on a website would likely be wrong for you. Reach out and I'll get you real pricing for your situation.

It depends on your home's value, what you owe, and the lender's limit. Many lenders cap total borrowing (mortgage plus HELOC) at around 80–90% of your home's value. I can run your numbers with you — ask about a HELOC.

No. A HELOC is a separate line of credit that sits alongside your existing mortgage. If you have a low rate, you keep it.

Usually, yes. Most HELOCs have variable rates, and the payment typically rises once the draw period ends and you start repaying principal. I'll show you what the payment could look like in both phases before you decide.